Sanahin, Armenia

A thousand years ago, Sanahin Monastery pulsed with the activity of Armenian monks, priests, scholars, and scribes. The small domed building is St. Grigor Chapel. In the background is the Scriptorium. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan is intent on presenting Armenia as a modern, post-Soviet nation. Yet, even this solid-as-a-rock drinking fountain ties the Armenia of today to its cultural past. When you look at the fountain do you see Mt. Ararat multiplied by 7? Mt. Ararat is the spiritual and cultural center of historical Armenia. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan's covered market was an anchor of the old city, but it couldn't compete with modern chains and mass-produced products. For a while, it looked like the whole structure would be demolished. Since then, the exterior has been restored and 'big business' has turned it into one of the city's supermarkets. Tree: entirely artificial! [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

When you spy a blue kiwi in Yerevan's Sculpture Park, you have to remind yourself that you're in Armenia, not New Zealand, Remember: Globalization = Armenian park + New Zealand icon + American sculptor. The sculptor is famous for animal menageries, such as the one along Broadway a few years ago. OK, you can stop smiling now. [2015]

Haghpat, Armenia

So much for socialization! Four people: each gazing in a different direction, almost as if they don't know each other. Yet, they must. Haghpat is little more than a village, and this is the village square. [2015]

Tsovagyugh, Armenia

In Armenia, it's Labor Day, one of the year's most important holidays, a hold-over from the Soviet era of Armenian history. For Americans, though, it's just May Day, deemed by President Eisenhower during the "Red Scare" as Loyalty Day, an antidote to international Communism. Can you spot the traditional oven being used by this chef? [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

"Here we are in front of a Converse store, and we don't have anything on our feet. Wait, we don't even have feet. Guess we shouldn't audition to be a Converse Couple, but at least we have each other on this Valentine's Day." [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

In the capital of Armenia a door opens to a basement pub: It's a worm hole to the Caribbean, and Crawfish day is coming up. Cuba, or should we say "The Island of Freedom," never looked so inviting. Perhaps people go hoping to see an armed duel between Armenian cognac and the Cuban mojito. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan has its own "blue mosque," and it is currently the only operating mosque in Armenia, a country with one of the strongest Christian identities in the world. Judging from the dome, is it (a) an Ottoman mosque, or (b) a Persian mosque? [2015]

Tsovagyugh, Armenia

Here's where the local meets the global.  Score? 2 for globalization (Snickers + Western alphabet) and 1 for local culture (Armenian script). As usual, the relationship is not is not symmetrical. As the market for Snickers grows worldwide, Meshrop's alphabet goes nowhere. [2016]

Yerevan, Armenia

Let's strum in the month of May. Strum: it's an example of onomatopoeia, a category of words that originate with the sound of whatever inspired them. Hum is another example of onomatopoeia. Strum and hum: It's what we do with the guitar. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Jaume Plensa is among the great public artists of the contemporary world, but here in Yerevan one of his sculptures is far from unique and totally out of place. Not unique? Variations on this theme appear all over the world. Out of place? Look at the elements of design! Letters from the Armenian alphabet would have made the genius loci lots happier. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Today is Palm Sunday in the western churches, but for Armenians it's Tsarzardar. The early church fathers had to do something to co-opt pagan believers so they made the day of Jesus' triumphant entry into Jerusalem the day to mark the triumphant entry of spring. This year, the astronomical vernal equinox happens to fall on Palm Sunday. [2015]

Akhtala, Armenia

A 14th century Armenian Apostolic church is in the background. In the foreground is a pomegranate, one of the "seven spices," or staple foods, of Biblical times: wheat, barley, vines, figs, pomegranates, olive oil, and honey. What does the pomegranate have to do with the following lifespan command? Be fruitful and multiply. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Advice for the year ahead: (1) Don't look back. (2) Learn a new skill. (3) Keep moving ahead. (4) Maintain balance. (5) Look forward to steep climbs. (6) Find somebody to hold your hand. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

If this were a multiple choice question, could you choose the one that does NOT belong? Choices are A through F. B is the correct answer. Any questions? [2015]

Tsovagyugh, Armenia

Tsovagyugh sits on a small plateau, really a pediment, overlooking Lake Van, one of the 'great lakes' of historical Armenia. Soon the snows will be returning to the Caucasus, not to disappear until next summer. [2015]

Akhtala, Armenia

The annual pilgrimage to Akhtala monastery is taking place today. Because of the complex history of the border region where it is located, the grounds will be thronged with not only Armenian Christians, but Georgian and Greek Christians as well. Pilgrims will enter through the main gate, seen here, and proceed to the 10th century church. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Change came to the linguistic landscape after 1990. Change 1: Lenin Ave. renamed Mashtots Ave. Change 2: Mashtots selected to honor the Armenian alphabet which he invented. Change 3: English and the Roman alphabet replaced Russian and the Cyrillic alphabet. No change: Alexander Pushkin, father of Russian literature, retained his place of honor. [2015]

Yerevan, Armenia

Take a popular cultural icon and make it your own. How have the Armenians done it?  Not by translating LOVE into Armenian, but by choosing their own color for LOVE. Do you still prefer the more amorous red? [2015]